As an only child, I’ve never had someone to hand me down clothes, yet almost all of my clothes are still hand-me-downs. Ever since I started caring about both fashion and the environment, thrifting has become part of who I am. I sit in my macroeconomics class searching on Depop for a pair of boots and make trips to the Groton Goodwill on the weekends.
There has been a rise in popularity of thrifting as it has become a trendy pastime and a way to consume clothes more sustainably. Goodwill, one of the biggest thrift empires, explains that thrifting is better for the environment because fewer items are thrown away and it contributes to less chemical pollution and resource consumption. This kind of research on the environmental benefits of thrifting has become extensive. Journalist Andrew Yarrow summarizes thrift to mean “wise spending, conservation of resources, elimination of waste, moderation, self-control, and careful use of time.”
But with this rise in popularity, there has been a rise in the price of thrifted items and an overall gentrification of thrift stores. The danger of this trend is in how it negatively affects lower-income communities by driving up prices and reducing availability of certain items for those who rely on it. The Echo explains “Thrifting as a trend, rather than a means to survive, is inherently classist and should not exist. The gentrification of thrift shops has only further harmed low income families.”
As a state with cities varying widely in socio-economic status, Connecticut is a direct witness of this issue. Many Connecticut households have been feeling financial pressure and facing hard economic realities. A recent survey found that “40% of CT adults [are] struggling financially or ‘just getting by.’” There has been a decline in economic stability over recent years in this state, negatively affecting housing, food, and clothing costs. Therefore, thrifting for many lower income families is not something they do to follow trends, but is instead driven by economic necessity.
“The trendiness of thrift shopping has given retailers the opportunity to increase prices because they are aware that there has been a shift in demographics… It alienates those who have a genuine need for secondhand items,” Emily Semmelrock, who works at Groton’s Serendipthrifty, told me in an interview. Many of these families view thrift stores as “one of the last few places where they can afford to buy the goods that they need to maintain their standard of living.”
So what should we do? How can we work towards sustainable fashion without harming low-income communities? It’s both the job of thrift stores and consumers to find a balance, Semmelrock says.
“In order for thrift stores to stay affordable, they need to have access to affordable inventory,” she said. “The ideal method for this is to be donation-based. If thrift stores can get inventory at low or no cost, they are able to keep their prices low. Eco-conscious shoppers may look to thrift stores not only for shopping, but for donating items they no longer want. Thrift stores then are able to cater to both low-income communities and those who are interested in sustainability.”
This recognition that these two groups are not mutually exclusive is the first step toward finding more of an equilibrium that remains accessible for everyone.
And we, the consumers, have a responsibility, too. Overall, it’s most important to consume clothing consciously, which can be a hard idea to implement without knowing certain steps to take. So, some examples of what you can do on the personal level are:
- When buying new, non-thrifted clothing, do so from brands who have a clear focus on sustainability.
- Invest in a capsule wardrobe full of basics and staples instead of buying new clothes to follow every trend.
- Bringing clothes to donate as well as going to shop.
- Go into every thrift trip with a goal of what you want to purchase, and leave things behind that you don’t truly need.
- Borrow clothes from your friends and family!
Thrifting is not something that is going to die down in popularity anytime soon, nor is it something that people like me and my friends are going to stop doing. It has clear benefits for the environment and is significantly better than buying fast fashion. But this rise in trendiness needs to also lead to a rise in awareness of the problems that it can cause, and therefore a commitment to working towards sustainable solutions.
Sylvia Brofka-Berends is a sophomore at Connecticut College double majoring in International Relations and French.