When I first got interested in sustainable fashion, I thought I was making progress by shopping for clothes labeled “eco-friendly” or “sustainable.” Then I took a fashion course in Milan and learned about “greenwashing” – when companies falsely market their products as environmentally friendly to attract conscious consumers. Suddenly, I did not know who to trust anymore and got suspicious of brands that claim to be “sustainable.”
The reality behind “sustainable” clothing tags
The fashion industry has significant environmental impacts, contributing to 10% of global carbon emissions. This means that, if the fashion industry were a country, it would rank as the third-largest emitter of carbon emissions globally, following China and the United States. Shockingly, 85% of textiles in the U.S. end up in landfills or are incinerated, creating immense pollution.
As concern for the environment and demand for ethical products grows, brands are quick to tap into consumers’ increasing awareness and desire for sustainability. In addition to brands like Orange Fiber, an Italian company creating fabrics from citrus juice by-products, and Levi’s, which has reduced water usage by streamlining washing processes, many companies attempt to capitalize on the sustainability trend without making genuine changes.
Take H&M’s “Conscious” collection, for instance. Marketed as sustainable, it claims to use at least 50% recycled materials. However, reports found that 96% of these claims were misleading, with most pieces made from non-biodegradable fabrics like polyester. Similarly, Adidas’s “Stan Smith” sneakers claim to be made from recycled materials, but only the minor components are recycled. What’s worse, these materials are shipped across the globe for cheaper price, offsetting any environmental benefit with significant carbon emissions.
Who does greenwashing hurt?
It hurts all of us. It directly hurts younger generations who want to do better but feel lost with misleading information. Greenwashing not only deceives consumers but also perpetuates the exploitation of garment workers in developing countries. Ironically, when brands attempt to appear more sustainable, they often offset costs by cutting corners in labor and materials, further degrading working environments and exacerbating worker exploitation.
What should sustainability really look like?
Sustainability, to me, means brands taking real steps to reduce their environmental footprint, such as using biodegradable materials and designing products for longevity. Instead of relying on vague eco-claims, sustainable brands adopt transparent practices, such as clear labeling of the percentage of recycled or renewable materials used.
What can we do as individuals?
In navigating this problem myself, I realized that part of the solution lies in becoming more informed. Here are some steps I’ve started taking:
- Look for Specificity. Be wary of vague terms like “eco-friendly” or “natural.” Genuine sustainable brands back their claims with data, like the percentage of recycled materials used, and transparent information on how they practice sustainability.
- Check for Certifications. Labels like B Corp, Bluesign, or GOTS-certified ensure rigorous environmental and social standards. These certifications signal that a brand is making a meaningful effort.
- Support Ethical Alternatives. Affordable options like Pact and Honest Basics offer sustainable basics at reasonable prices. Thrifting is another fantastic way to reduce waste and find unique, high-quality pieces. I’ve found some of my favorite outfits at my hometown’s local thrift store!
- Recycle, Donate, and Choose Wisely. Instead of discarding unwanted clothes, I donate or sell them to give them a second life. Additionally, I focus on buying fewer, high-quality pieces that will last, reducing fashion waste.
For example, Southeastern CT Swap, based in New London, promotes “swapping before shopping” to reduce waste. It’s a fantastic opportunity to refresh your wardrobe sustainably. You can also look for similar organizations in your area.
What can we do collectively?
As important as it is for individuals to start taking small steps, I believe that the burden shouldn’t fall entirely on consumers. We need systemic change to hold companies accountable. One fundamental solution is legislation.
In 2022, a New York coalition announced the Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act, requiring fashion brands doing business in New York to disclose their supply chain practices, environmental impact, and efforts to mitigate harm. Even though the act has not yet passed the legislature, Connecticut should consider implementing similar legislation to directly target the fashion industry’s sustainability.
There are ongoing efforts in Connecticut to tackle environmental issues related to textiles. For example, Governor Ned Lamont last year signed a bill aimed at phasing out the use of PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), a “forever chemical” commonly used in waterproof clothing like yoga pants and raincoats.
We can all play a role in pushing for such change by:
- Spreading Awareness. I invite you to join me in sharing information about greenwashing on social media and educate your community about the importance of transparency in fashion.
- Joining Movements. The process of pushing for a new law is definitely challenging for individuals. We can reach out to organizations like Fashion Revolution and Remake who have connections and can provide resources and platforms to advocate for change.
- Supporting Policy Changes. We can also identify and reach out to local lawmakers who have demonstrated in the past their concern and support for environmental matters, sign petitions, and encourage our community to back legislation that demands corporate accountability.
As a college student, I’m still learning how to navigate sustainable fashion in all the ways that I can. Like many of you, I don’t always know how to make the best choices on a tight budget. But I believe that together, we can figure this out. By staying informed, advocating for systemic change, and supporting honest sustainable practices – such as those that prioritize circularity, use renewable materials with transparent information, and ensure fair labor practices – we can hold fashion companies accountable for their words, creating a more ethical fashion industry that should not just be about trends and profits.
It’s not about being perfect or always being right – it’s about doing the best we can, one step at a time.
Nancy Pham is a senior at Connecticut College pursuing a career in ethical marketing